This is 50-year old ex-gangsta Ice-T, star of Law & Order: SVU out with his stripper wife Coco on a recent Las Vegas jaunt. What class! What taste! But still, I argue that BAD taste is ALWAYS better than NO taste. So kudos to them for being themselves (because surely no sober stylist or friend would have helped them out with these getups). All Ice-T is missing is the rose-colored glasses.
The New York Sun reports today that sales of FitFlops - “the flip flop with the gym built in” - are on the rise, with more than 1 million pairs already sold. These thick-soled sandals promise a workout as you walk, by destabilizing your foot with built-in wobble boards. The resulting movement is supposed to mimick walking on sand, making your leg muscles work harder. The author of the article gave them a try and writes that her quadriceps, calves and hamstrings did indeed tighten in a week’s time.
FitFlops range in price from $50-$60 and are sold in numerous places including Macy’s. For a list of retailers, you can go to thefitflop.com. There’s a fancy, limited-edition gladiator sandal sold at the Soho boutique Kirna Zabete and beginning in August, at Net-a-Porter. Those retail from $150-$165.
Yes, they do come in a wide variety of styles as you can see from the photo above and, the promised workout is mighty tempting. I mean, it would be nice to get more muscular legs just by walking to and from work. BUT, I still cannot bring myself to do it. I just cannot go there - flip flops. No matter how many colors and styles they come in, they are still pretty ugly and do not flatter your feet or legs. Although, are they as ugly as the Birkenstock Gizeh thongs? I don’t know. It’s a toss up. Still, in good conscience, I feel bound to bring all this information to ya.
The photo above is from the August 2008 issue of W magazine. It features Christy Turlington wearing Prada briefs and a pair of thigh-high lace-up platform boots from Etro. When I saw this photo, I was immediately reminded of a similar pair of boots displayed in a recent exhibit by the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.
The Met’s boots (pictured above) were made by the Paris shop of Maniatis Bottier. Of Greek origin, Bottier established his shop in the 1920s. Although he usually catered to a distinct clientele which included film stars such as Cary Grant, it seems that his client base was quite … varied. The shop’s ninth arrondissement location near the Pigalle red-light district may explain these boots. The heels are unusually high for the day as is the height of the boots. As the Met explains, these features coupled with the fact that there is little wear and tear on the soles point to the probability that these were fetishistic shoes.
Although the Costume Institute is not in the habit of displaying S&M articles, they made an exception for these boots because with their high tapered heels, they are a harbinger of the stiletto heel that was to become popular in the 1950s. Also, as the Etro boots exemplify, the Met’s boots “illustrate the incorporation of designs originating from a world of highly specialized and esoteric tastes into the larger, ostensibly more normative, culture. The tendency of fashion to co-opt taboo and exotic elements from other periods, cultures, or, as in this instance, the demimonde, is one strategy employed for its constant reinvigoration.” In other words, the Met’s boots are a precursor to sex industry fashions going mainstream. And, as Etro and everyone else knows, sex sells.
By the way, notice the generous amount of room the Met’s boots allow for the thighs. I suppose that despite the flapper, streamlined fashions of the 1920, curvier figures were still the norm.
I have seen this Birkenstock Gizeh thong EVERYWHERE! It is all over New York. A couple of days ago, I was walking on Third Avenue, in the 70s, and I noticed three teenage girls standing in a group, talking on the sidewalk. The reason I noticed them was because they were ALL wearing the silver thong. Only a few steps later, I saw a middle aged woman wearing a pair too.
I’m sure they are comfortable and at $69.95, they are cheap, but those aren’t good reasons to buy them! They are UGLY! I don’t care if they’re in silver, red patent, black patent or bronze, (all the colors they come in) they are unflattering. I can’t blame Birkenstock for wanting to tap into a wider female market, but these sandals are not feminine. They don’t do anything for your foot. And, they commit the worst fashion crime in my book now by being ubiquitous. So I beg you, please, please stay far away from them.
The ocher color of this satin pencil skirt from D&G Dolce & Gabbana is so alive! It stands out so vibrantly amidst a (New York City) sea of black, gray and white. And, it’s a great color to wear year round. Another noteworthy aspect here is the tailoring - sexy without being trashy. The same holds true for the prominent zipper that goes down the back which I’ve noticed with a few D&G and Dolce & Gabanna things lately so it must be a trademark of sorts for them. In any case, what make this skirt even more glorious is the price - only $350. This is pretty, pretty good considering that it can also carry you from day to evening.
By the way, the black D&G silk chiffon ruffle blouse it’s been paired with is a standout too. I love the contrast between the sleekness of the skirt and the ruffled romance of the blouse. The V-back with the grosgrain tie is a wonderful added detail. At $395, it’s more than the skirt, but you can certainly get good use out of it by dressing it down with denim, for example.
I was looking through Nordstrom’s website because on Friday, July 18, they are kicking off their big Anniversary Sale which will run through August 3. What’s great about this sale is that it is actually on new fall stuff - all kinds of stuff from clothing to handbags, to shoes and jewelry. But of course, my attention was caught by an item which is not on sale but which I find irresistible. This dress by Lida Baday is sleek elegance. Pure and simple. The contrast between the wool and taffeta makes it interesting while the form-fitting silhouette makes it flattering. The “bustier” top adds a sexy note while keeping everything under wraps. It is $1,075 on pre-order.
… that plastic surgery has been around for thousands of years? It may be increasingly in the news today due to its popularity, variety and sometimes, cautionary tales (eg Jocelyn Wildenstein, Joan Rivers, Michael Jackson, Carrot Top and many, many others), but plastic surgery procedures have been documented to exist as early as 600 BC!
Perhaps not surprisingly given the ubiquity of nose jobs today, the first documented cosmetic surgical procedures are rhinoplasties. Descriptions of rhinoplasties have been found in ancient Hindu texts written 2,600 years ago. These early procedures, involving skin grafts from a cheek or forehead, were born of necessity, however - dire necessity. Facial mutilation, particularly the amputation of the nose, was a punishment frequently doled out by vicious bands of marauders traveling throughout India. The Hindu justice system also spurred the necessity for reconstructive surgery by levying the same harsh and humiliating punishment on adulterous wives. Yikes!
Plastic surgery in ancient times was not always due to necessity, however. The Roman ritual of the daily public bath can be held responsible for several surgical procedures developed purely for cosmetic purposes. Popular among them, especially among freed slaves, was the removal of telltale brandings and whip marks. The removal of battle scars on the back, considered marks of cowardice, was also in demand. Another procedure made popular by public bathing was male breast reductions. In his text, De Medicina, written in 30 AD, the doctor Cornelius Celsus describes a procedure to reduce the large, shameful breasts of an obese man. So cosmetic surgery performed on men is not a recent phenomenon after all.
Like today, plastic surgery has also long been used as a tool for career advancement. Holy Roman Emperor, Justinian II, relied on a nose job to engineer a spectacular career move. At the end of the 7th century AD, an amputated nose stood between the deposed Justinian and his lost throne. Known as the Rhinometus or “one with a slit nose,” Justinian was overthrown and his nose mutilated so that his disfigured appearance would prohibit him from regaining his throne. These efforts proved futile, however, as he underwent nasal reconstruction and subsequently returned to power.
Career considerations, in fact, proved instrumental in the development of both, face lifts and breast enlargements. Famed actress, Sarah Bernhardt, is said to have received one of the first surgical face lifts almost a century ago at the hands of French doctor, Suzanne Noël (pictured above). Her refreshed look was duly noted when she returned to the stage after a holiday. Dr. Noël’s 1926 textbook describing her techniques and procedures and including before and after photos, contributed to the acceptance of plastic surgery in modern times. As the first female plastic surgeon, Dr. Noel was a trailblazer in other ways too.
Several years before Dr. Noël picked up a scalpel, a 41-year old singer had the first surgical breast augmentation. She had had a growth removed in 1893 in Germany. Her doctor had decided that given his patient’s profession, it wouldn’t do for her to have uneven-looking breasts. So, he harvested fat from her back and transplanted it into her breast, providing her with evenly sized breasts.
Fat injections continued to be used to enlarge breasts until the 1920s. By then, unfortunatley for their patients, surgeons had been experimenting with a wide variety of materials to increase breast size. Using implants made of ivory, glass, ground rubber, peanut oil, honey and ox cartilage, it is no surprise that just as today, their removal made up almost as large a part of a surgeon’s practice as their insertion. Some things never change, especially man’s quest to improve his appearance, no?
There’s been a shift of late in the flow of medical tourism. For the last few years, uninsured Americans have traveled abroad, mainly to Asia, for procedures such as hip replacements and bypass surgery because of the considerably lower costs offered there. The same holds true for plastic surgery. Women and an increasing number of men have made their way to places like Thailand and Brazil for facelifts and liposuction.
But now, according to a recent article in The Wall Street Journal, a weak dollar has led to an uptick in the number of foreign patients for plastic surgeons in the US. The past few years have seen a precipitous fall by the dollar against the Euro and the British pound. As a result, patients from Spain, France, Germany and the UK have been increasingly availing themselves of the expertise of doctors based in the US.
The US is considered to have the best quality plastic surgery and European patients are realizing that they can now be treated by an internationally reknown American specialist for the same price as a surgeon at home, including the cost of travel and accommodations. Understandably then, American hospitals and surgeons are capitalizing on this trend, taking out advertisements in in-flight magazines and regional publications. The New York Eye and Year Infirmary is even launching an ad campaign in London. What next? Does this mean the end of bad English teeth? Will Englishmen begin sporting gleaming white chiclet smiles too? We shall see…
Even in the summer, you can use a bit of cashmere, especially when it is sleeveless and oh so stylish like this one from Theory. The gray color is subtle and sophisticated but what really makes it of course, is the V neckline in the back. The one-inch band across the shoulders will ensure that it will always stay in place, making it comfortable to wear. You will never have to fidget with it. And, it’s on sale. It was
$315 and is now $220.50. That’s not bad for 100% cashmere.
I’ve been looking high and low this summer for a mirrored day bag and the only one I liked was this satchel from Dolce & Gabbana. There were plenty of silver bags with a matte finish, but almost no good ones with a mirrored finish. I waited for it to go on sale and lo and behold it has and is still in stock. Originally $2,150, it is now $1,010.50. Measuring 13″W x 10″H x 8″D, it is a great size, neither too big nor too small. The buckled straps on the side give it a chic, luggage-type of feel and the front pocket is very practical because, I don’t know about you, but I can never find my cell phone in my bag. I’m forever rummaging for it as it rings and rings and of course, by the time I pick it up, it’s too late. I have never quite got used to using those interior pockets meant for cell phones, so I find this outer pocket perfectly pragmatic. And don’t forget, as I mentioned yesterday, you get free shipping until July 17 by typing in FREESHIP at checkout.
Hey everyone, starting today, Saks is having another markdown - up to 70% off. That means that these totally fab Jimmy Choo water snake sandals which were originally
$920 are now $552. The details here are awesome. Check out the come hither zipper at the back, the cool, sculptural heel (which is 4 1/2″ high) and the cut-outs at the ankle. All this and it’s snakeskin, not pressed leather. What’s also nice about these shoes is that they are year-round. The gold is very versatile and it certainly is not just for summer. Plus, for a week, until July 17th, you get free shipping by using the code FREESHIP at checkout.
… that the first internationally recognized fashion designer (and stylist) was a contemporary of Marie Antoinette’s? Her name was Rose Bertin and it is no exaggeration to say that she was instrumental not only in turning Marie Antoinette into a fashion icon, but also in making fashion and haute couture a central part of popular culture.
Rose Bertin (pictured above) was a marchande de modes, a female fashion merchant. Of humble birth, she came to preside over the increasingly important world of fashion from her exotically named, opulent shop, The Grand Mogol. Her boutique had large windows filled with all sorts of enticing displays. As Caroline Weber writes in her wonderful book Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution
Rose Bertin’s universally acknowledged supreme chic was not limited to dresses and accessories. She is also responsible, in conjunction with Monsieur Leonard, the Queen’s snooty hairdresser, for creating the pouf - the very high, extremely ornate coiffures we often see in 18th century portraits and illustrations (see above). According to Caroline Weber, “the pouf was built on scaffolding made from wire, cloth, gauze, horsehair, fake hair, and the wearer’s own tresses, teased high off the forhead. After dousing the whole edifice heavily with powder, its architect installed amid the twists and curls, an elaborate miniature still-life, intended to express a feeling (pouf au sentiment) or to commemorate an event (pouf a la circonstance) of importance to the client.” Poufs illustrating all sorts of things from current events such as naval battles, to events more personal in nature such as the birth of a child and even a husband’s infidelities, started “popping up” all over Paris.
The poufs and the elaborate clothes were extremely expensive, often ruinously so. Marie Antoinette had become a capricious trendsetter which women on all levels of the social spectrum wanted to imitate as best they could - this even despite the Queen’s sinking popularity. The huge costs of the coiffures and the clothes - which were expensive not just because of their high-priced materials, but also because of frequently changing trends - drove many to accumulate enormous debts and even to lose family fortunes. The Queen’s friend, the Princess de Guenemee, for example, actually had to declare bankruptcy due to her unpaid clothing debts, most of them owed to the Grand Mogol. Her customers’ financial straits, however, were no obstacle for Bertin as she helped them rack up even more bills by letting them buy on credit, charging 10% interest. Other marchandes de modes soon followed suit. I suppose that at 10%, her rates were far more favorable than those of credit card companies today.
Rose Bertin was also a marketing genius. She deployed life-sized dolls - in the likeness of Marie Antoinette - adorned with her latest clothing and hair designs to cutomers from England to Russia. This sort of advertising helped make her a great success abroad as well while cementing French dominance in the luxury industry - an industry which was of course thriving thanks to her patronage and that of other marchandes de modes.
Still, with all her chic and business acumen, Rose Bertin’s success is directly related to Marie Antoinette’s generous patronage. Bertin’s ascendancy and reign over the fashion world lasted from 1774, the year Marie Antoinette became Queen to 1792, the year before she was executed. Bertin’s close friendship and daily visits with the Queen (pictured above), not to mention the astronomical prices of her creations (one of her gowns could easily cost 20 times what an average worker earned in a year) did nothing to endear her to the public in revolutionary France and she was forced to flee to London where she continued to cater to the expat community there. Upon her return to Paris in 1795, she ministered to Josephine Bonaparte, but only for a short while as the fashion excesses she was known for had become outmoded after the Revolution. Rose Bertin eventually retired, having transferred her business to her nephews. She died in 1813.
The story of Rose Bertin is a thorougly modern one. A provincial policeman’s daughter, she rose to the pinnacle of French society, becoming very wealthy in the process. Her meteoric rise is remarkable not just in and of itself, but also in the fact that Rose Bertin was completely self made AND in the fact that she was a woman. She was instrumental in making France synonymous with luxury and she reigned over fashion at a time when that industry was dominated by men. For all this, she is well worth noting.
These are some of my favorite accessories from the Fall 2008 couture shows. I love, love, LOVE the alligator “spiderweb” bag from Jean Paul Gaultier. It has a retro look about it, but with a modern edge which makes it hard to place. I really like that sort of ambiguity in things. I love the patent orange “harness” shoes too, also from Gaultier. The orange is beautiful and the buckled straps criss-crossing the front are just very cool. (Notice the matching orange tights - more on that below).
I thought the “picture frame” hats from Chanel were ingenious, plugging into the narcissistic zeitgeist with a “look at me” whimsy. And, the hair accessory emphasizing the back of the head, especially the nape of the neck with the leather cords, from Christian Lacroix, is totally fab - a subtle seduction.
We will see bright splashes of color, especially with tights this fall and that’s great because they add a bit of joy and youthfulness to the more somber and conservative trends of the season. Notice again, the pairing of the bright colored shoes with the matching tights. It’s just a pleasure to look at, especially when the hues are so pretty. And last, but not least, how cool are those “mesh” shoes from Christian Dior? They are incredible, not just because of the great color and cool heel, but the mesh has something fierce, armorial about it, but in a very sexy, peekaboo way. It really wouldn’t matter what else you’d have on if you’re wearing these shoes. They make the outfit.
The Fall 2008 Couture Collections have been shown in Paris and they are always a treat - a veritable feast for the eyes because they are so luxe and can be wildly imaginative. We are after all, speaking of suits and dresses that are well into the five figures, so I suppose that is as it should be.
This year, true to form, there was much diversity both within a designer’s collection and between designers. But, for me, there was a discernible thread that ran through all of them and that was a certain toughness, a certain armorial quality. I found this of the clothes as well as of the demeanor of the models. Although the collections varied wildly in terms of color, style and inspiration, they all contained looks with these qualities. Perhaps it is a sign of the current uncertain economic and political times. People, even those who can afford $50,000 dresses, want to feel protected.
OK, perhaps these outfits from Chanel’s Spring/Summer 08 RTW collection are not the most practical choices for a barbeque, but they sure are fun to look at, not to mention, in the spirit of things. Anyway, check out the handbag-as-anklet. Could this be a sign that the oversize bags we see today will be shrinking? Or, will fanny packs migrate south? No sure, but I do know that this mini purse frees your hands so you can eat all the corn on the cob your little heart desires. Hmmm … maybe these ensembles are just the thing for Fourth of July picnics after all. Happy Fourth!
The “Nan Kempner” hat (see below) has put me in an elegant frame of mind and if you’re looking for something classy too, this black silk blend blouse from K Karl Lagerfeld will do very nicely. Feminine with its large ruffle and flowing, sheer overlay, it is conservative and sexy at the same time. I especially like the double keyhole closure at the back. I also appreciate the versatility. You can wear it to work, to dinner, for cocktails as you can see from the photos, it rocks when paired with skinny jeans. But wait, there’s more - it’s also on sale. It is 50% off: down to $215 from $430. It’s not often you can get something good from Kaiser Karl at this price.
I don’t know about you, but I like a bit of color on my pale limbs in the summer time because well, that vitamin D is very important isn’t it? Also, one always looks so much more toned and slim with tanned limbs. But, you don’t want those same warm rays wrinkling up your face or potentially causing skin cancer (studies show that melanomas are far more dangerous when on the face or scalp). So, as the glare of the sun intensifies, I slather on the sunblock, put on a big pair of shades and, if I’m going to be spending a lot of time outdoors, opt for a good wide-brimmed hat. This white straw hat, fashioned after one of fashion acolyte Nan Kempner’s, is so chic and elegant. Can’t you just picture it fitting righ in in St. Topez? But, the truth is that the hat would be fab no matter where you’re spending the summer. The alluring 10-inch brim and the stand-out white would look great whether you’re holing up in a city, strolling on a beach or cooling off in the country. Better yet, it is on sale. Originally, it was $395 and is now $276. Actually, it’s even less than that because as I mentioned yesterday, Vivre is offering another 20% off their sale items until July 2nd. Just type in VEXTRA20 at checkout and voila, this sublime and functional accessory can be yours for less than a few tubes of the Anthelios sunblock I like so much.
These snakesin clutches by Kotur in silver and gold are a great find. You can wear them to formal occasions or to cocktails. You can wear them with anything because the metallics go with everything. Also, they’re at good size. Measuring 9 5/8″ x 4½” x 1¾”, they’re wide and deep enough to fit your lipstick, keys, money and credit cards for the evening, but still small enough to be a feminine clutch. Plus, they are on sale. They were $438, now they are $306. But, they are actually even less because Vivre is discounting all sale items another 20% until July 2nd. Just enter the code VEXTRA20 at checkout. At these prices and considering the basic versatility of these clutches, it’s worth getting both the silver and the gold.
The July issue of Harper’s Bazaar devotes 40 pages to one of its biggest advertisers - Estee Lauder. And, as the New York Times points out, it’s not 40 ad pages, but 40 editorial pages. The magazine is awarding these pages AND the cover to the four stars of Estee Lauder’s ad campaign for its new perfume, Sensuous. So, Gwyneth Paltrow (who conveniently has a new movie out), Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy and Hilary Rhoda share prime real estate in this issue. Usually magazines offer a blurb or perhaps a page or two to one of its advertisers’ product launches, but the coverage here it truly unprecedented.
I hope this is not going to be a trend, although I’m afraid that it will very much be the way things will be done as sought-after advertisers will gain more clout in our faltering economy. I, for one, am pretty sick of everything turning into an ad as it is. I already know that when I see a celebrity on a magazine cover, it’s because she has a new product to hawk whether it’s a movie, perfume or clothing line. For me, there’s no point in buying magazines (and I have subscriptions to half a dozen glossies) if they will be nothing but big advertorials. What do you think?
I just got back from a few days in Boston, the dual purpose of the trip being to get out of muggy NYC and to attend a Red Sox game. No, I’m not the sports enthusiast (by any stretch of the imagination) but my husband is a Boston native, so there you have it. He, like the rest of the city, is a die hard fan. I’ve never seen so much Red Sox paraphernalia in my life! It seemed like the city was papered with the logo because by my count, about 50% of the population, babies and all, was wearing a Red Sox product. That franchise must be minting money.
But, as luck would have it, we attended their worst game of the season so far. It was against the St. Louis Cardinals and it was over in the first inning. It was a beautiful summer weekend however, and the sights (and great restaurants too) offered no small consolation. The Public Garden, pictured here is always a delight to meander through. Little bit of trivia: established in 1837 on the site of a salt marsh, the Boston Public Garden is the first botanical garden in the US.
